Monthly Archives: February 2016

#HKKAL16 – Month 1 FOs!

Somehow we’re already to the end of the first month of the Holla Knits KAL 2016! There has been lots of action over in the Holla Knits Ravelry Group. The Hosted KALs are a big hit, and projects are rolling in from every angle.

And remember! There is still time to jump in – the KAL doesn’t end until April 29th. Read more about how the KAL works in our cast on post, pick your projects, and join us!


Join the HK Accessories Board Now!

nkfoster21's Cedar Glen Mitts

nkfoster21’s Cedar Glen Mitts

nkfoster21's Pom a Rama Slippers

nkfoster21’s Pom a Rama Slippers

nkfoster21's Country Fair Scarf

nkfoster21’s Country Fair Scarf

soniamv's Cedar Glen Mitts

soniamv’s Cedar Glen Mitts

JWiesel's Hand Blankets

JWiesel’s Hand Blankets


Thread LinksRolling ThunderBowdoin Hat.

andreatl's Bowdoin Hat

andreatl’s Bowdoin Hat

MsKniterrific's Bowdoin Hat

MsKniterrific’s Bowdoin Hat

RoHart's Rolling Thunder

RoHart’s Rolling Thunder


Congratulations to all the HKKAL knitters already racking up the FOs! There are great projects on the horizon as well – here are just a few of the WIP pics shared!

DeliriousMahmi's Devon Cardigan

DeliriousMahmi’s Devon Cardigan

mamatronic's Thing to Wear

mamatronic’s Thing to Wear

wooleygromit's Wallpaper Cowl

wooleygromit’s Wallpaper Cowl

Emily Ringelman's Fair Isle Pants

Emily Ringelman’s Fair Isle Pants

Knit like the wind everybody! I can’t wait to see more of your projects! And remember – keep up with everyone and join in in the Holla Knits Ravelry Forum!

Pattern Sale & Feature Week: Polonaise Modifications

Over the next few months Holla Knits will host Pattern Feature & Sale Weeks! Each week a new Holla Knits design will be 50% off and the designer will do something special to show that design in a new light. 

Next up is Ashwini Jambhekar and her Polonaise pattern!
Grab Polonaise 50% off – $3! This week only.

Polonaise by Ashwini Jambhekar

Polonaise by Ashwini Jambhekar

From designer Ashwini JambhekarAlthough Polonaise might seem to involve too many complexities for any size adjustments, there is actually a lot of opportunity for customizing sizing. One of the reasons I like to work sweaters flat in pieces and seam them later is the flexibility that this construction provides. So let’s take a look at how and where modifications can be made.

To adjust the body width, simply cast on the desired number of stitches and work fractional repeats of the pattern at the hem, using the guidelines from the previous post. Alternatively, add or subtract stitches after working the lace pattern at the hem, once you start the stockinette stitch section. While the pattern as written is designed to have a convenient number of lace repeats at the top of the shoulder, with all the armhole and neck shaping going on in that region, you’ll be a pro at working fractional repeats of the pattern (see Monday’s post), and any changes introduced in the stitch count will be easily incorporated. Just make sure there’s an odd number of stitches before starting the neck shaping! The region of stockinette in the middle portion of the body also allows for waist shaping, without disrupting the stitch pattern repeat. I made my sweater straight this time for a comfier fit, but it would look fantastic with a bit of an hourglass shape as well.

Fig1 (1)

To change the length of the body, work additional or fewer rows in the stockinette portion, or once the upper lace portion commences. The former option will ensure that the lace point of the V will remain in the same place, while the latter will result in the lace point moving up or down.

Fig2 (1)

Adjusting the V-neck depth is a bit more tricky, but not impossible! Once you’ve decided where you want the point of the V to land (relative to the shoulder), calculate the number of rows between the bottom and top of the V neck. You will want to have the same final number of shoulder stitches (unless, of course, you don’t), which means that you will want to work the same number of decreases over the newly-calculated number of rows.

Fig3 (1)

If the number of decreases doesn’t evenly distribute across the number of rows, then work decreases more frequently at first, and less frequently towards the top of the V. A neck that looks like this …

Fig4 (1)

… is much better than one that looks like this.

Fig5 (1)

Now that you’ve customized your body length, width, and neck depth, you’ll be ready to tackle the sleeves. The sleeve shape is fairly straightforward, and all the shaping effects are achieved by differences in gauge. To adjust the width of the forearm, simply change the stitch count in multiples of 4. You can restore the stitch count in the first row prior to the start of the lace pattern.


To adjust width in the upper arm, increase or decrease to the desired number of stitches in the first row before the lace pattern begins, and work partial pattern repeats over the extra stitches. Restore the stitch count in the final rows of the cap; the puff sleeves are quite forgiving of variations in stitch count.


Finally, the sleeve length can be adjusted by lengthening or shortening either the ribbed forearm, or the lace sections. To preserve the Gigot-sleeved look of the sweater, ensure that the transition from the ribbing to the lace occurs at or just below the elbow.


Your customized Polonaise will quickly become a wardrobe favorite!

Pattern Sale & Feature Week: Polonaise

Over the next few months Holla Knits will host Pattern Feature & Sale Weeks! Each week a new Holla Knits design will be 50% off and the designer will do something special to show that design in a new light. 

Next up is Ashwini Jambhekar and her Polonaise pattern!
Grab Polonaise 50% off – $3! This week only.

Polonaise by Ashwini Jambhekar

Polonaise by Ashwini Jambhekar

From designer Ashwini JambhekarPolonaise features a relatively simple lace pattern, configured in a somewhat more complex arrangement across the sweater front and back. The pattern asks you to both incorporate additional stitches in the lace pattern as you work, and later to decrease them while maintaining the pattern. Here are some tips that will help maintain the lace pattern, without resorting to swaths of interrupting stockinette stitch.

The pattern initially begins with working one lace repeat in the center of the body. The lace pattern is a multiple of 6 +1 sts, which means that a single repeat is 7 sts. It may be helpful to mark the center 7 sts when working the row prior to the first lace row.

Fig1This is how it looks after the first repeat has been worked over the center 7 sts.

Fig2Now you will want to add one additional pattern repeat before and after the established one.

Each additional pattern repeat will be 6 sts (not 7!). On the last WS row before working the additional pattern repeats, place markers 6 sts before and 6 sts after the established 7 pattern stitches, and remove the original markers.

Fig3(Those of you with keen eyes might notice that I’ve added an extra stitch at each end. This is only to keep my markers from falling off. In reality, you will have many stockinette stitches on each side of the central pattern repeat). On the next row, work the pattern as described between markers. A central stitch that’s maintained as a knit stitch throughout will be come evident (marked with a safety pin).

Fig4This will become important when you start decreasing.

When it comes time for the armholes, you will have to decrease in pattern. One method is to work the stitches of the pattern repeat in which the decrease occurs as stockinette. But maybe you don’t want a chunk of 5 stockinette stitches at each end of the piece. With this pattern, it is relatively straightforward to work partial pattern repeats, as follows:

Find (and mark) the central knit stitch of the first pattern repeat, indicated here by the safety pin.

Fig5(Again, those of you with keen eyes might notice that I’ve decreased away the extra edge stitches I added previously—I no longer need them to hold markers in place! This is for instructional purposes only). The stitches after the marked one can be worked in pattern without any adjustments. In this pattern, all the RS rows begin with a “yo” within the first 3 stitches of the row beginning and end. To decrease one stitch at each end, simply omit the yo but work the decrease that’s closest to it as usual. One stitch decreased!

Fig6annotatedIn this case I’ve worked the first decrease on Row 2 of the pattern. If you want to decrease again on Row 4, the situation is more straightforward. The omission of a yo on the previous RS row generated 2 stockinette stitches before the central marked knit stitch. These two stitches can be worked together on Row 4 to decrease another stitch. If you prefer to work decreases 1 stitch from the edge, the central knit stitch of the pattern can be worked together with the preceding stitch (at the beginning of the row), or the following knit stitch (at the end of the row).

Fig7annotatedIn this image, the first two stitches at the beginning of the row have been worked together (ssk), leaving the central knit stitch of the first repeat untouched. At the end of the row, the central knit stitch of the final pattern repeat has been knit together with the next one, leaving the edge stitch untouched. Note that this still preserves the knit stitch “spine” in the pattern. Once the central knit stitch has been decreased away, the remaining half of the pattern repeat can be worked in stockinette stitch to accommodate additional decreases. In this way, it’s possible to decrease in pattern without generating more than 2 stockinette stitches at each edge at any given time, allowing the pattern to flow gracefully along all the shaping lines.