Scallop of the Sea Zipper Lining Tutorial

Katie Canavan has helpfully provided this great photo tutorial to walk you through the lining of your Scallop of the Sea–thanks Katie! Read on to learn how to sew like a pro.

You may be asking yourself, “Why would Katie do this to us – why would she MAKE US SEW?!” I know a lot of knitters avoid sewing like the plague, but I promise you, for accessories like bags, a sewn lining will take your project to the next level and make it last that much longer.

So stick with me, and you’ll have an awesome, lined bag in no time!

First of all, select your materials:

1. Two rectangles of woven lining fabric* – 18” by 13.5” – iron these before cutting
2. One rectangle of pocket fabric – 11.5” by 7.5” – iron this before cutting
3. Two rectangles of medium to heavy -weight interfacing for lining – 11.5” by 13.5” – don’t iron this one, it’ll get stuck to the ironing board
4. One rectangle of lightweight interfacing for pocket – 11.5” by 7.5”
5. Thread to match
6. Zipper to match

*Note about the fabric – these measurements are based on the final measurements of the knitting piece. If your final measurements didn’t come out exact, that’s ok, just adjust the lining to fit. Take your measurements, and add .5” to each side. We will sew everything with a .5” seam allowance (how far away from the side you sew), and this will make your finished lining about .5” smaller than your knitting. Perfecto!

Let’s get ironing!
Iron your interfacing to your pocket and your lining fabric. One side of your interfacing should be noticeably bumpier than the other – this is the side you line up to the wrong side of the fabric, and press with the iron.

If your interfacing is a bit larger than your fabric, that’s ok. Just do like I do and trim it after you’ve ironed it.

Stitch a line across your lining and interfacing – this is just extra insurance that they’ll stay stuck together.

A note about interfacing – for Emma’s clutch, I had to use a lightweight quilting cotton as the lining, because apparently fabric stores hate awesome colors. So to make up for the lack of oomph, I used a heavy weight interfacing. In this picture, you can see that it stands up on it’s own.

In the pattern, I recommended a midweight interfacing, because the lining fabric I used for my sample was heavier. So the point is – pick an interfacing that goes with your fabric. If you’re using a heavy fabric, you use a lightweight interfacing, and vice versa.

On to sewing the pocket! I love an embellished pocket – it’s like a little secret in the bag – so if you’d like to do something similar, now is the time. I embroidered “Emma” on the pocket, because this is for Emma (yup, I go with the obvious).
Then fold and pin the pocket like the picture above – leaving that 1” of overlap.

Now we’ll sew the pocket with that .5” seam allowance. You can see on my machine, above, that this means I line up the side of the fabric with the side of my sewing foot. A .5” mark should be on your sewing machine, and if you need to, just measure it with a ruler and mark it.
After it’s sewn, clip the corners and turn it inside out, and press with a hot iron. I like to use a lot of steam.

Now fold down the top of the pocket twice, and press it down with the iron (this way you shouldn’t have to use pins while sewing it). Sew it as close to the edge of the fold as possible.

Pin your pocket to the center of one side of the lining, and sew down. Once again, try to get as close to the side of the pocket as you safely can, about 1/8th of an inch.

On to the zipper!

Line up the zipper so that the teeth are pointing down on your work, and the little metal stopper is about 1/8th of an inch in from the side of your lining. Let the zipper hang off, like the picture below. Sew in place with zipper foot, about 1/8th of an inch from the teeth.


Repeat this on the other side, and flip the work inside out and press. It should look like the picture below, with the zipper facing away from the right side of the fabric.

Fold the lining in half, right side to right side, and pin in place. If it’s not lining up exactly, that’s ok. Try to make the best of it.

Sew in place with a .5” seam allowance, making sure to sew the zipper edges together, as shown:

This will get them out of the way for hand sewing the knit work to the lining.


Ta-dah! – You’ve sewn a lining!

Now open the zipper, put the lining into the knit work (wrong side to wrong side), and pin around the top. Hand or machine sew the lining to the knit work, and tack the lining to the knit work at the bottom. This means sew one or two little stitches in the bottom corners through all layers – they should be close to invisible.

Fold over the top and give the whole thing a good press with a hot steamy iron. If you’re using a wool or wool-blend yarn, this will felt the stitches a little bit (which is great for this project, but not recommended for your favorite wool sweater).

You’re done! Congratulations!

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One response to “Scallop of the Sea Zipper Lining Tutorial

  1. Pingback: The Finish Line: Scallop of the Sea Week 4! | Holla Knits

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