Like most girls I know, I wear flip-flops before it’s warm enough and sweaters before it’s cold enough, because I’m always antsy for the next season to start, even though we’re not done with the current one. The Everett Henley is great for those not-quite-cold-enough-for-a-sweater days if you layer it over a camisole, but it can easily take you into actual winter if you layer it over a button-down and add some killer boots. The lace pattern is one of my all-time favorites, and top-down construction means that it’s totally seamless. The curved hem, applied i-cord bind-off, and three-quarter sleeves add structural interest and detail.
Finished Size This sweater is meant to be worn with anywhere from -2 to +2” of ease, depending on personal preference and how you plan to layer it. To fit bust sizes 28-32 (30-34, 35-39, 38-42, 43-47, 47- 52, 52-56). Finished bust measurement 30.5 (32, 37, 40, 45, 49.5, 54.5). Sweater shown in Knit Picks Swish Worsted in 32” and in Knits in Class in size 40”.
Yarn: Knit Picks Swish Worsted, 100% Superwash Merino Wool; 110yds/50g: Copper, 10 (11, 13, 17, 18, 20, 23) skeins.
Yarn: Knits in Class Mohair Merino Worsted, 52% Mohair, 48% Merino; 225yds/100g: Mr Darcy, 5 (6, 7, 9, 9, 10, 12) skeins.
Needles: Size 7 (4.5 mm): 24” circular, and size 8 (5 mm): 30” circular for body of sweater and EITHER a long (40”+) circular, a 16” circular, or a set of 5 dpns for the sleeves. You will also need 2 Size 8 dpns for the applied i-cord bind-off. Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions: Removable markers (m): one matching set of 8 for raglan increases and one matching set of 10 for lace increases; smooth waste yarn; tapestry needle; 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) 5/8” buttons.
Gauge 20 sts and 28 rows = 4” (10 cm) in St st on larger needles. 20 sts and 28 rows = 4” (10 cm) in Everett Lace pattern on larger needles.
Lace pattern: each repeat measures 1.5” across and 1.25” down unblocked; 1.6” across and 1.5” down after blocking on larger needles.
Notes Be sure to read through all of the body directions before starting. Several things happen at the same time! Slip all markers as you come to them.
On construction: This raglan-sleeved sweater is knit from the top down. It’s worked back and forth until the Henley neckline is complete, then it’s worked in the round until the curved bottom hem, when you again switch to back-and-forth. When working the raglan increases, you will often not have enough stitches to complete a full lace pattern. To save yourself a multitude of headaches, here’s what you do: use one set of markers to flank your raglan seam stitch. Use a different set (different color or shape) to mark off your lace sections. Work your increase stitches in stockinette until there are 8 stitches between your raglan markers and your lace sections, NOT counting the very first or very last stitch of the row. Then add another lace pattern, starting on the same row that you are already on, meaning: don’t start at row 1 of the chart again. For example, if you’re on row 7 of the chart, work the new stitches according to row 7.
On the lace pattern: There is lace patterning on every row/round. On right side rows, one extra stitch is added per repeat. It is removed on wrong side rows. When counting stitches, be sure to count after you have worked a wrong side row, so that those extra stitches are not included in your counts.
The Designer Emily is a conservation geneticist at the University of California in Davis, but she’s about to pack up and move all the way to Delaware. This is exciting, because that box of handknitted, unworn sweaters that lives under the bed will finally see the light of day. Emily has self-published a few patterns on Ravelry (ID: emilyringelman), but this is the first for-serious knitting publication. Check out her blog at www.cosmosandcashmere.blogspot.com for knitting and modern quilting adventures. For questions about this pattern please contact Emily Ringelman at email@example.com.